Dallas’ York Street and Nana Make Gourmet Top 50
Gourmet’s Top 50 Restaurants issue brings a smacking of the lips across the country as we look for our favorites, or cross-reference cities and decide where to go next.This year’s surprise: Winner Alinea, not even a blip on last year’s top list, blows past beloved icon Chez Panisse, home to Alice Waters. From what we understand, Alinea takes food to a cerebral level; you taste with your eyes, your mind, but not exactly to satisfy your hunger. Like Scarlett O’Hara, it might be best to eat beforehand so as not to appear hungry after a meal of “tiny interactive dish(es)” (October Gourmet p.132) such as “edible papers, liquid donughts, atomized shrimp cocktails, carbonated fruits…(Oct. Bon Appetit p. 104). David Kamp’s Foodie Nation” article in Bon Appetit this month slams this restaurant and the “new wave of enfant terrible technochefs in Chicago” that spawned it. We’ve not tried this spot; if you have, let us know and we’ll check it out next time we’re in the windy city and decide for ourselves….is this the hottest new cuisine or a bunch of hot air?
Maybe here in Big D we’re just now catching on to the whole bonding-with-local-producers thing that Alice Waters brought to Chez Panisse and San Francisco 30 years ago. But no matter – Sharon Hage at York Street here has made “the” list by paying attention to just that, while Chef Anthony C. Bombaci at Nana Grill brings us food with a flair from his time spent in Barcelona. Get inta’ town, try these winners out, and taste for yourself!