Wine Roads of the Veneto – Perfect Day Up North
Friday, June 29th, 2007Did You Know There is a Prosecco Wine Road
Want to try a day on the Prosecco Wine Road? Yes, indeed there is one! The road begins at Valdobbiadene and ends around Conegliano in the Veneto region, just northwest of Venice. We visited two with a lunch stop inbetween, and dinner in Asolo. A perfect day, so here goes!
Start your day at Bisol (www.bisol.it), one of Italy’s premier vintners of Prosecco. Send them an email in advance and ask for a tour with Claire. She’ll show you how not only Prosecco but Champagne are made (they make both on site), and then you can have a tasting of still Prosecco (interesting, but you can understand why filling the grapes with bubbles makes total sense) followed by a few from different “terroirs” on their estate. The combination of altitude, soil, and wind from the sea forms a wine from the same grape with a different soul for each. What we learned:
- Look for DOC on the label of prosecci(!) that you find in the states. That ensures that the grapes come from the original region, and that 85% of the grapes are prosecco.
- Counter-intuitive-ly, the driest prosecco is “Brut“, followed by “Semi-Dry”, then “Dry” is the sweetest. Our preference is the Semi-Dry or Dry, as it has a little fruit, a little bite, a little bubble.
- Frizzante has fewer bubbles than Spumante, so better for meals..
- Thanks to Alfonso Cevola the Italian Wine Guy for the tip!
Next, lunch. Take the road to Follina and have a leisurely lunch at Ristorante La Corte (Tel. 0438971761). We loved the Gargahelli pasta (hand made, shaped like penne rigate, but with egg and more delicate) and a smoked (affumato) ricotta, and also the spaghetti with tomato and basil. With lunch, we tried Vigne Matte Prosecco (they bring a bottle to the table, but you only pay for what you drink) and when we saw the signs to that winery (http://www.vignematte.it/) on the road next, we stopped in.
So, from Follino, turn south on a side road and head towards Farro to find Vigne Matte. It’s a good next step from Bisol, as they are a new winery, but already winning awards and are based on the side of a hill with a stunning view. Perfect for weddings and late afternoons.
Afterwards, based on a hot tip from Deirdre Cizon, we headed to Asolo and Hosteria Ca Derton (www.caderton.com). First, in Asolo, there is a wonderful outdoor art exhibit called Incanto with merry go-round horses, oversized laundry, empty chairs, gargantuan flower pots….yes, you have to be there.
Then, as promised, we found Nino and Antonietta, owners of Hosteria Ca Derton (Nino was walking with his grandson prior to opening the restaurant) and had an amazing meal in what might seem to be an unassuming city. First, an amuse bouche °sweet salad” of watermelon and cherry tomato with basil oil. Then, a wonderful “primo” of gnocchi with tomato sauce placed in a crisp Parmesan round, that could have passed for a trompe d’oeuil fruit salad. (Who needs the new “foam” restaurants when you can have Nino’s real food?). Then, both the roasted pork and shrimp with pasta nero canneloni (thanks to squid ink) filled with bream were full of flavor and a taste we might have otherwise have labelled gamey had we been at home. At perfect end to a perfetto day!
Our July Insider’s Tour of Tuscany has just concluded. Our guests are on their way home, and we’re headed to NYC for this year’s Fancy Food Show.
Saying it’ll be a cold day in July before you’ll try grilling pizza on your deck? Pictured above is Wendy Shelly and family doing just that! Inveterate organizer and neigborhood party planner Wendy has made grilled pizza a staple, and this weekend is a perfect time to try it!
Wine in the news this week: First, New York Times reviewer Eric Asimov and panelists review one of our favorites from Italy’s Piemonte region, Barbera. (Click
We told you about this in 2005, and it’s back in the news! As a recent