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    Due to the kindness of new friends, and a fortunate set of circumstances, we found ourselves celebrating this year’s Palio victory at a nightly dinner in the “Bruco” neighborhood of Siena. Rains threatened and finally came, but failed to dampen the enthusiasm of the locals, who sang songs to the rain in addition to their neighborhood “fight song”, and the song of the evening: “Glory, Glory Hallelujah”.
 You see, the Brucos won first place in the Siena Palio, a horse race that careens around the Siena’s central Campo, in August this year. They have celebrated every night since, as they will be through October 11. Each night since victory night, the neighborhood, or “contrada”, holds a dinner for 600 people or more in its private garden, hidden from street view by Siena’s high, dark walls. Each dinner features a different theme and song: the night of our visit was “stool” night so everyone brought a stool, some decorated in the green/gold/blue colors of the contrada.Â
 ”Stool?” you say? In Italian parlance, a stool is a lowly person, someone of no count. Prior to this year’s win, and three others since 1996, the Bruco contrada hand’t won in ages, so were considered by some to be “stools”. Even the roots of the “Bruco” contrada are humble; “bruco”, meaning “caterpillar”, symbolizes the neighborhood’s origins in the silk trade, harnessing caterpillar power in the tedious, manual process of spinning silk. So, on “stool” night, the Brucos were saying, “Sure, we’re a stool! We’ve only won the Palio four times in 12 years!” (more…)