Lesson from the Etruscans: Be Careful or Your Face Might Frieze!
Wednesday, January 28th, 2009
        We met the Etruscans last fall on our drive from the Rome airport up the Tyrrhenian cost towards Pisa. Jet-lagged and looking for a stretch, we noticed icons on our map that looked like little igloos and indicated “Etruscan Necropolis”. We pulled off in Tarquinia for a gander, a midsize town north of Rome, just south of the Tuscan border (whose name comes from “Etruscan” by the way).
We found the necropolis just southeast of town, a mounded, open field with mini-doorways complete with clay roofs that led into each tomb, layers of lives lived and memorialized there, with us as unintended, unimagined witnesses. Each tomb had a little light on a timer, not so efficient, so that you had the sense that the first discoverers must have had: of seeing the bold frescoes come to light slowly.   (more…)