One of the Great Squares in Italy – Trieste
Trieste has a lot of competition: The Campo in Siena, the Piazza San Marco in Venice…but the Piazza dell’ Unita is one of the finest squares in Italy. The architecture is Hapsburg sublime, and the open spaces, lined with evergreen trees that let off an alpine scent even when you’re not thinking about Christmas. They invite strolling, political speechmaking, and all of the sorts of human interaction that make Italy’s liveable spaces so compelling to those of us who live in American suburbs and meet friends only after driving somewhere in a car.
Last night I wandered into Caffe degli Specchi on the piazza. If it were not raining, I would have sat outside, but then I would have missed the awards ceremony for the soccer team that had won the trophy for the entire region. Prosecco and toasts all ’round, with the winners properly humble, but the families and girlfriends full of pride and admiration.
It was warm inside, and the kind cameriere (waiter) rescued me from an impromptu shared table in the back to a comfy seat where I could watch all the soccer action, in a crowd big enough so that peoplewatching doesn’t become invasive. The best thing in Italy is the little treats they serve as appertivo when you order a drink. My Campari came with sides of huge Cerignola olives, and cute little cutout openface sandwiches with little flowers shaped like icing made of tuna spread and some sort of pate. Not something I’d order off a menu, but in the context of the soccer heroes? Perfetto!